2003-2023 20 YEARS OF SOUTH2 WEST8

Shocked by the‘Heavy-duty Ivy’Style

South2 West8 Chuo Ward, Sapporo City.
Sapporo City in Hokkaido is neatly divided into grid sections by evenly spaced vertical and horizontal streets. On the west end of the Tanuki-koji Shotengai, a 900 meters long shopping street located in the city center, a shop started its business 20 years ago.
The shop was named NEPENTHES Sapporo (later changed to SOUTH2 WEST8 SAPPORO). Launched as the first branch of NEPENTHES, a concept shop established in 1988, the Sapporo outlet also became a flagship store of Hokkaido-made original brand SOUTH2 WEST8.
The shop’s hideout-like exterior at the time of opening.
Owner Keizo Shimizu had always dreamt of opening a shop in Hokkaido since around the time when he launched NEPENTHES. But why Hokkaido?
It all started when Shimizu saw the latest American culture and a number of fascinating products made in the country in Made in U.S.A.-2 magazine published in 1976 at the age of 18. What caught his eye most was the so-called ‘Heavy-duty Ivy’ style, a mixture of then-trendy Ivy clothes and products made by outdoor brands such as L.L.BEAN. After the publication of the magazine, the word ‘heavy duty’ began to be used in Japan to refer products that are durable enough for tough use. The ‘Heavy-duty Ivy’ style dares to incorporate outdoorsy items, including mountain parkas, down jackets, work boots and daypacks, with traditional Ivy outfits. There is no rule to be cool.
American young people’s way of wearing clothes had so much freedom that it changed Shimizu’s thoughts of fashion.
Later he entered the world of fashion and seized an opportunity to visit his long-time favorite L.L.BEAN when traveling around the New England area in the U.S. for buying. There he saw their specialty section for outdoor activities such as hunting and fishing, and felt overwhelmed with the true nature of ‘heavy duty.’
At around the same time, he began to enthuse about stream fishing and visited Hokkaido for the first time. Wild and pristine rivers there brought with him unimaginable rich experience and greatly inspired his later lifestyle. Fascinated by the magnificent nature of Hokkaido, Shimizu started to frequent the region and it recollected his memory of getting shocked by the ‘Heavy-duty Ivy’ style in his youth. He then made up his mind and thought;
“One day I will open my own shop in Hokkaido to introduce a mixed style of outdoor and fashion.”

A Shop People
Would Take Trouble to Come

After NEPENTHES got on track, Shimizu decided to open a branch in Hokkaido without hesitation. He spent a couple of days to stroll around Sapporo City to find a right place on instinct alone. Then a building near the crossing of South2 West8 drew his attention.
It was a two-story premises located between an old wooden Japanese bar and a new building. Being a little distant from the center, the area was quiet even on a weekend. It requires customers to take trouble to come, but it was actually what he thought an ideal shop would be.
Long path to the entrance in the early stages of the shop stimulated the excitement.
To make first-time visitors excited as if to explore an unknown world, the exterior of the shop was covered by white block walls, featuring a long approach path decorated with a Yezo sika deer skull, the symbol of the shop, to the entrance. The path could also be used to shake snow off coats and shoes to cope with Hokkaido’s climate.
The long pave led visitors to the main floor which is amazingly spacious, contrary to the hideout-like exterior. Warm rays of light shining through the high atrium spread into every corner of the floor, illuminating the mounted polar bear by as well as rare epiphytic plants from around the world.
All the products and clothes in the shop were selected under the theme of ‘the Heavy-duty Ivy style.’ NEPENTHES’s original brand SOUTH2 WEST8 was newly launched in line with the opening of the branch that offered some exclusive pieces along with outfits from ENGINEERED GARMENTS and NEEDLES. Thus, NEPENTHES Sapporo finally started its business in February, 2003.

The Birth of original brand
SOUTH2 WEST8

“In terms of fashion trends, the popularity of the ‘Heavy-duty Ivy’ style had already died down at that time. But, although there may be some changes depending on my mood of the time, what I think cool have been same at the core. It’s been always so since I started NEPENTHES 35 years ago.”.
Because it was before the social media, information couldn’t be spread so rapidly like today. And it was a little hard for passersby to drop in the shop as they couldn’t see the inside from the outside. There were, naturally, not many customers coming right after the opening. But the shop caused a buzz mainly among people in the same industry because of the unique concept that was hardly found not just in Hokkaido but in the rest of the country. The shop gradually got media exposure.
It was products from SOUTH2 WEST8 that became a driving force to attract more customers. Among all, a series of items made of Sunforger canvas gained most attention. According to Shimizu, those are “the origin of SOUTH2 WEST8 and have always been at the brand’s core.”
Despite the unfamiliarity in Japan, Sunforger cloth has traditionally been used as a tent or yacht awning in the U.S. Shimizu happened to find the material at a factory he visited for buying, and got fascinated with the unique sun tan color as well as the water repellent properties of the densely-woven surface. The fabric inspired him to make bags and a field jacket with it.
Bags made of the fabric are now regarded as one of the brand’s signature items and were originally designed based on a canoe bag to carry all necessities of life and a hunting bag to store binoculars. Partially-used thick leather straps and durable rivets add a touch of American-made ruggedness to each item, while the size and design remain ideal for everyday town use.
Early model of the Sunforger canvas field jacket.
Early design of the target symbol on Canadian Cowichan sweater.
On the other hand, Shimizu described the field jacket as “the symbolic item of the ‘Heavy-duty Ivy’ style.” He also said that he had wanted to make it in his own design even before the launch of NEPENTHES.
Each piece is manufactured at an established factory in the U.S., with the design based on his favorite RED HEAD’s duck hunting jacket. Combining traditional manufacturing methods and iconic design details, including double flap pockets and patchworked wide-wale cord fabric, the field jacket looks authentic and just like a vintage piece.
Along with those products, the shop carried many other items such as Cowichan sweaters knitted by long-established Canadian factory brand CANADIAN SWEATER, colorful daypacks inspired by products made by SIERRA DESIGNS in the 1970s, and canvas mukluk boots designed to be paired with knickerbockers and knee-high socks.
As a brand that expresses various fashion elements from outdoor, military to traditional in its own unique interpretation, it didn’t take much time for SOUTH2 WEST8 to draw nation-wide attention.

New Concept Focused on
‘Tenkara Fishing’

After a little over a decade since the establishment, SOUTH2 WEST8 made a major change in 2015. A series of outdoor products related especially to ‘stream fishing’ were newly added to the brand’s spring/summer collection released in the year.
First model of the TENKARA SHIRT that sublimated military style into a fishing jacket.
The fundamental concept of the brand’s creation at that time was ‘Tenkara,’ a traditional fishing method inherited by professional fishermen in the Honshu area since ancient times. To develop up a new field, SOUTH2 WEST8 aimed to create an opening to enjoy the simple way of fishing that only requires a rod, line and fly in the great nature of Hokkaido. Such a fashion-led fishing experience also gives people an opportunity to cultivate a better understanding of nature.
“Around that time, offering heavy-duty outdoor clothes was no longer special in the fashion industry. So I thought it might be fun for us to pursue something more niche instead.”
The new creative project moved forward with repeatedly doing ‘Tenkara Sessions’ and giving feedbacks and ideas they got from it. While focusing on the functionality of each product as a tool, they also never compromise in the stylishness as a fashion item.
Waterproof and breathable triple-layered fabric of the newest RIVER TREK JACKET.
RIVER WALKER STRETCH WADER, highly stretchable and the slim silhouette was innovative at the time. Long awaited rerelease arriving this season.
The brand’s tireless pursuit to create what it really wanted to produce made its range of products expand from clothing to full-fledged fishing tools. The challenge began with the development of waders specially designed for Tenkara, also known as ‘angling that requires walking.’ Many of ordinary fishing waders provide high waterproof performance, but the fabric is normally too stiff and not ideal for Tenkara anglers who need to quickly cast their flies while moving to another spot. And this was the reason the brand created its original fabric named ‘TRI DRY FLEX’ featuring both fully waterproof properties and flexibility. Made of the material, the brand’s waders feel stretchy and comfortable, yet with a slim fit. The military pants-like design made the item stand out from conventional waders.
SOUTH2 WEST8’s Tenkara rods are made in collaboration with Sakurai-Tsurigyogu, Japan’s rod manufacturer established in 1888. Following the launch of the exclusive color model of their extra short jointed rod, ‘Kongo,’ that is strong enough to fish a big trout, the brand created its entirely original rod named ‘Masurao’ in 2020 after two years of trial.
In 2016, the store was largely remodeled with a stream fishing-themed section newly built in the back. The area was styled in a traditional Japanese way with an old chest and wicker baskets on display along with fishing-related goods made by SOUTH2 WEST8 and overseas manufacturers to express the world of the brand.

From Hokkaido to the World

The number of SOUTH2 WEST8 fans has been increasing in recent years especially abroad, partly because Tenkara fishing gains popularity in the U.S. and the U.K. The collaborative project with Supreme® in April, 2021, consolidated the worldwide reputation of the brand. Featuring SOUTH2 WEST8’s signature RIVER TREK JACKET, BUSH PARKA, PIPING JACKET as well as TENKARA ROD made in collaboration also with Sakurai-Tsurigyogu, the capsule collection in multi-colored camo design reinterpreted the brand’s aesthetics with a street vibe.
2RIVER TREK JACKET from 2022 with Ben Miller’s artwork incorporated in textile.
Special tenkara rod created in collaboration with Supreme in 2021.
ZIG KINETICA 2.0 EDGE - the first trail-style shoe created in collaboration with REEBOK in 2022.
Just around the same time, SOUTH2 WEST8 had a destined encounter with a painter. It is Ben Millar, an artist based in Montana, the U.S., the Mecca of trout fishing. He is known for his unique artwork called ‘Fly Cast Paintings’ to which he throws his handmade brushes to draw rivers. Deeply sympathizing with his works, the brand collaborated with him for the Fall/Winter 2022 collection. His artwork characterized by its unique colors and strokes were printed allover on the brand’s signature WEATHER EFFECT JACKET and HUNTING SHIRT. And also in the same season, for the first time in brand’s history a collaboration with Reebok was realized. The original camouflage on trail-style shoes stirred the sneaker scene.
Rooted in Sapporo, SOUTH2 WEST8 has been introducing the fusion of outdoor and fashion through Tenkara, Japan’s world-famous fishing culture. They never get affected by trends, nor be just nostalgic. What they create becomes even more original collection by collection, because they always welcome a new challenge.
Hokkaido is thawing for spring. The 21st year of SOUTH2 WEST8 will soon take place.